For those that would like more information on finishes and finishing, this section has been added. There are so many finishes, and so many ways of finishing, you might want to know more about each. Hopefully, we will get folks in the club that would like to donate articles about their experiences, and techniques on the topic. This section is reserved for those articles. Enjoy.
The following topics might be covered
- Finish (Haim Matza)
Max Odorless Mineral Spirits
gloss oil polyurethane
boiled linseed oil - Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze (Matt Harber)
- Parfix 3408, ACKS Abrasive & Polish (Karl Geary)
- Spray Lacquer – Gemini (Greg Bray)
- Spar Varnish (Ron Vincent)
- Lacquer (Ron Vincent)
- Mylands Friction Polish (John Brown)
- Watco Danish Oil (John Scelfo)
- DEFT Sanding Sealer (Gary in Oklahoma)
- Acks Abrasive/Polishing Paste (Steve Lackscheide)
- OB Shine Juice (Steve Lackscheide)
- Lacquer (Andy Schuster)
- Antique Oil (Andy Schuster)
- OB Shine Juice (Andy Schuster)
- Finish: (Doug Miller)
- Satin finish: Abrasive paste and wax for quick.
- gloss finish: sanded out to 320 then sanding sealer followed by high gloss
lacquer, 4 coats then sanded, repeat 4-5 times until I get total coverage
at the gloss I’m after.
- Minwax Antique Oil (Harold King)
- Finish (Matt Harber)
Multiple coats of lacquer, sanding with finer and finer grits
between coats. Final process: Beall Buff system, 3 wheels,
with carnauba wax as the last step. - Finish (Matt Harber)
Minwax Helmsman’s Spar Urethane, clear gloss. spray rattle can.
I build thin coats and sand with increasingly higher grits until I get the
finish the way I like it. Usually at least 8 coats, sometimes as many as 15.
Minwax Wipe-On Polyurethane, spray and liquid. Spray lacquer….
Same process for all of them.
And I buff (Beall, 3 wheel system). - General Bowl Sealer (Charlie Bundy)
- OB Shine Juice (Tim Hatch)
- DEFT Lacquer (Tim Hatch)
- Parfix 3408 (Tim Hatch)
- Hut Wax Stick (Gary Hoffman)
- Hut Wax Stick (Robert Hodge)
- Parfix 3408 (Bob Grinstead)
- Krylon Crystal Clear (Bob Grinstead)
- Finish (Biily Burt)
Depends!
1) Food safe: Only pure tung oil (NOT tung oil finish) or mineral oil.
2) Natural look (non-gloss): Howard Feed-N-Wax.
3) Gloss finish for light colored woods: Deft gloss spray lacquer.
4) Gloss finish for darker woods: Minwax Antique Oil - Parfix 3408 (Dane Chandler)
- SparVarathane (Dane Chandler)
- Tung Oil (Dane Chandler)
- WOP (Dane Chandler)
- Homemade (Scott Tague)
Dewaxed super blonde Shellac + Everclear Alcohol Mineral Oil - Parfux 3408, Vonex & Wax (Brenda THornton)
- ACK’s Paste & Salad Bowl Finish (Heather Spiritwynd))
- Hut wax stick (Garry Hoffman)
- Tung Oil (Gary Hoffman
- Gloss Lacquer for pens, using dip method (Billy Burt)
- Walnut Oil (Heather Spiritwynd)
- Min Wax Antique Oil followed by Walnut Oil (Dean Grimes)
- Min Wax WipeOn Poly Satin (Don Francis)
- Finish (Gerald Jenson)
Finish depends on the type of turning. If it is a utilitarian piece that will
be used with food, I generally use Tried & True Original. Decorative pieces I
usually use one of the Minwax wipe-on polyurethanes. Shiny sells, so most of
the decorative pieces get a gloss finish.